Pattern Review, Project Sewn

Week 3: Graphic Print Miz Mozelle

Creative Counselor: Miz Mozelle dress
My graphic-print Miz Mozelle for Project Sewn Week 3

I don’t know if this fabric technically meets the requirement of a graphic print, but it’s definitely loud and bold and I loved it as soon as I saw it. So we’re just going to go with it, m’kay?

This dress is the Miz Mozelle pattern by Jamie Christina. I’ve always eyed her patterns but this is actually the first one I’ve ever sewn! I was quite impressed. This pattern was straightforward, well-drafted and the fit is great! I have the Mission Maxi pattern down in my sewing room now, but I think I’ll wait until spring to dive into it. I think I’ve missed my window for a tank or halter maxi dress this year 🙂

Creative Counselor: Miz Mozelle dress
Back view

This fabric is from Girl Charlee of course! It is the Abstract Painted Floral and it is a cotton-rayon jersey blend.

When Albert saw my fabric, his first reaction was that it looked very 80s.  Now that I’ve spent some time with it, I think he’s probably right.  The fuzzy abstract print and the colors used all pretty much scream 80s.  Luckily, the 80s are in now!

Creative Counselor: Miz Mozelle dress
Don’t you just love the day of or after a haircut when your hair has been blown out and looks 10 times better than you could ever do it? I may not shower now for a week! Oh wait, that probably would be the case regardless…Never mind.

Typically, I try to avoid the cotton jerseys at Girl Charlee (even though they are the best prints) because experience had shown me that they tend to be slightly transluscent, and the prints are usually painted on. I generally go straight for the cotton-Lycra or cotton-spandex blends in their shop. But I loved the print of this cotton-rayon blend so I decided to give it a shot.

I’m glad I did–this stuff is luscious! It is beautifully soft and drapey and completely opaque. It wasn’t a nightmare to work with, unlike some of their cotton jerseys, and the print is actually dyed, not just painted on. At $6.50 per yard, this is an absolute steal! I’d get more, but too much of this print in my closet would probably be pretty noticeable. They have a few other cotton-rayon blends in stock right now, and I just might have cut into another one for a different garment in my queue 🙂

Anyone familiar with the Miz Mozelle pattern could easily spot my main alteration to the pattern.  The pattern, as drafted, has a keyhole opening in the front, which is a single piece cut on the fold.  That wasn’t going to be particularly functional for me since I am currently nursing, so I omitted the keyhole and did a button stand instead.

Normally my buttonhole foot and I don’t get along particularly well, but I’ve made a point to learn its ins and outs recently, so we’ve declared a sort of truce.  I wasn’t particularly looking forward to sewing six buttons not required by any pattern, to be honest.  But I interfaced the button stand with woven interfacing to give it a little more stability, and all went swimmingly.  No stand-offs with my machine and it didn’t eat anything!

Creative Counselor: Miz Mozelle
Miz Mozelle with a button stand.

Pattern: Miz Mozelle Dress by Jamie Christina

Size: 12. I chose a size closer to my pre-pregnancy measurements for more longevity since the dress has so much ease.

Fit: Great! This dress is nice and loose, which is exactly what I need right now. I cut a size that corresponds more closely to my pre-pregnancy measurements, but I was pretty sure that with the generous ease and elastic waist it would work now. I was right! I just did a small FBA (added about 1 1/2 inches total to the bust) and all I will have to do as I drop baby weight is just shorten the waist elastic.

Fabric: A cotton-rayon blend jersey from Girl Charlee. I have no problem recommending this fabric. It is soft and drapey and surprisingly easy to work with.

Modifications: I omitted the keyhole and made a button stand so I could open the bodice front for nursing. I also omitted the bias binding on the hem and just turned under about 5/8″ and hemmed. I’m not a tall person so this made the dress almost exactly knee-length, which is where I like it.

Physical pattern: Paper pattern!!! If you’ve read my pattern reviews in the past, you know how much I love paper patterns. IMO it’s totally worth waiting a few extra days for shipping to be able to fondle a lovely paper pattern. And avoid trimming and taping dozens of sheets of paper together. This pattern is on tissue, which I don’t love, but I am much more accepting of it now that I have a huge cutting table with a huge white cutting mat. That makes it much easier to see and trace those lines.

Pros:

  • Very forgiving fit.  This makes it a great pattern if you’re new to knits or sewing women’s clothing.  Because the skirt is gathered and the bodice is bloused, the dress requires virtually no fitting.  Just make sure your upper bust/shoulder measurement is ok, and you should be good to go!
  • Strategic use of bias tape adds some additional interest to an otherwise simple dress.
  • Design would look good in a print or a solid.
  • Quick sew.  I cut this dress over the weekend and finished sewing it by Monday evening even with my limited sewing time.

Cons:

  • I found the instructions to be a little confusing in places.  Luckily, I knew what I was doing and didn’t really need to use them.
  • The pattern has you sew a gathering stitch on the skirt pieces before attaching the skirt to the bodice.  I found that with a stretchy knit like mine, the gathering stitch was completely unnecessary.  It ended up being an annoyance because I had to remove the basting before I could sew my elastic casing at the waist.  It just wouldn’t lay flat with the basting stitch still in there.

Overall grade: A.  This pattern is really versatile, flattering and beginner-friendly. It is designed for knits, but can be done in a woven also.  A really well-done pattern.

And my daily companion did not want to take his morning nap while I snapped my photos. He was quite patient at least:

Creative Counselor: Baby J at 6 weeks
Such a good boy.

Then I had the audacity to do this to him (my kids have all hated tummy time):

Creative Counselor: Baby J at 6 weeks
“Mom, this isn’t very NICE!”

After which his attitude towards me was more like this:

Creative Counselor: Baby J at 6 weeks
“I’m telling Daddy!”

0 thoughts on “Week 3: Graphic Print Miz Mozelle

  1. My kids hated tummy time too. My eldest hated it so much that she was a late crawler! I love your dress, the pattern is very nice – I’ll have to see what else Jamie has to offer 🙂

    1. I have both the Mission Maxi and Sol Hoodie also. I’m planning to dive into the hoodie soon but will probably save the maxi for summer.

      My older two both screamed bloody murder at tummy time too but they still learned to walk so I don’t sweat it 🙂

    1. Comfy is important! Both the pattern and fabric are super comfy with this dress. I was a bit surprised by the scale of the print too. That’s happened several time with Girl Charlee prints for me. Hazards of online shopping I guess!

  2. Glad you and your buttonhole foot became friends 🙂 I love buttons so I would rather make million buttonholes than sew in one zipper (only exaggerating a tiny little bit). I love the collar on the dress. Maybe I was too young in the 80’s, this fabric doesn’t scream that to me, but hey, even if it does, you are correct – it is in now 🙂

    My daughter hated tummy time until I followed a friend’s advice and put a rolled up towel under her arms. She was fine with tummy time after that.

    1. Hmm, a roller towel is a good idea. Might have to try that! Mine don’t mind it as much on the Boppy either, but that props them up awfully high.

      I love the fabric regardless of whether it’s 80s. And the colors are some of my favorites!

  3. This is one of my favorite patterns, and I love what you have done with it here! The Mission Maxi is great too, I wear mine all winter with leggings, boots, and a sweater over the top 🙂 And it is a super fast sew. Your little guy is sooooo adorable, my kids would agree that tummy time is the worst! And your hair looks so pretty! 🙂

    1. Thank you!!

      I really loved this pattern too. I think I’d love to make another one in a solid. So many projects!!

      I might have to succumb to Mission Maxi before next summer. I’ve been drooling over that pattern for almost a year now and finally bought it. A sweater and boots can work wonders on summer clothes in the wintertime 🙂

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